Surfing with Clay Marzo
Jonah Lehrer has a great piece in Outside Magazine on Clay Marzo who has Asperger’s syndrome’ a form of high-functioning autism. The article details how “at one” Marzo is in the water and explains some of the difficulties he faces when not in the water (where he’d rather not be). Throughout the whole article there’s an emphasis on the focus (or obsession) he has with surfing.
Once he’s on a wave, he’s not thinking about anything but the wave. He’s letting go, and you can feel that release when you watch him. I don’t want to do anything that takes away from that, because that purity is damn rare.
Tags: focus, jonah lehrer, relaxed concentration, surfing